South America Motorcyling Road Trip : Riding Travel Log : Day 14 - 20

Middle of road Route 5 crossing the Atacama Desert.

Valparaiso in front of The Admiralty HQ. Same spot I stood here in 2006

German riders in-company

Valparaiso

Atacama Desert

Atacama Desert

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn

The San Marcos Church, Arica, Chile

The Hands Monument. 71km away from Antofagasta, Chile

Day 14 to Day 20

Border crossing from Peru into Chile at Tacna, Peru/Arica, Chile.

Out of Peru

Park bike as directed by the Police. He directs you to an office to fill up Pasejero form 4 copies. Then go to the Immigration and stamp out passport and the Pasejero forms.The immigration took one copy Pasejero form. Then go to the Aduana, they took one copy and stamps the other copies. About 300 m, there is a Peru check point, they took 3rd copy you hold the 4th copy. You are free to go out of Peru and enter Chile.

In Chile

Police directs you where and what to do. Go to immigration and stamp passport. You will be asked to fill GAP forms 4 copies. This is custom declaration form. The Chilean government is very strict about food and agricultural products and foreign currencies import into Chile. Once you have got all the GAP forms stamps from the various offices you will be directed to unload your bags for screening. Then with all GAP form stamps you are clear to enter Chile.

The whole process of the border crossing took almost 3hr. Not bad but filling up forms in Spanish language may be an adventure to me. I did it after few mistakes and rewriting of forms. The best part is, you have to do it to know how it feels. And remember, common sense prevails.

The first Chilean town from this part of land border is Arica. It is a new township and new infrastructures though the old buildings are kept and new internal decorations take shape. Insurance seeking in this part is difficult as it is Friday and most shops closed at 3.30pm. See the San Marcos church from the same designer of the Effile tower in Paris. I observed the ground set up and the church's tower releects the similarity of the Effile tower.

Riding from Arica to Vallenar passing through Antofagasta experience the Atacama desert features; arid, hot, dry and emptiness. The physical nature consists of rocks, reddish mud, sand and occasional gust of strong wind blowing sand across your path. In some places there are salts deposit. No wonder there are many salt production factories there. In general, there is no townships between 200 - 250 km. Trucks, express buses and four wheel drives dominate the traffic. Met and rode in company with 4 other riders from Germany for 2 days. We went each other ways after Taltal, Chile.

Departing from Atacama desert and hug the West coast of Chile, I encountered rugged, steep and long winding roads.There are many fishing villages and they served great fishing menu. My favourite is Pescaldo vapour (Steam fish).

Along Route 1, I crossed the Tropic of Capricorn; a man-made concrete separated by 2 towers with 4 brass plates written in Spanish about the lines. It's quite an achievement I think to have cross this another important invisible lines of the world.There is no ceremony like Crossing the Equator which sailors do as part of the good old sailor tradition. But, I was quickly shown the way out and asked to continue my journey as 2 Chilean army guards came and cautions me not to take picture towards the military camp just behing the Tropic of Capricorn monument. I called it a ceremonial send off!

At Antofagasta, about 71 km South along Route 5 PanAmericanas I stop by just to picture the Hands Monument. Many riders did that, so I thought it is good idea to do the same. Would you?
In Chile especially along the coastal areas there are many campsites to pick. It very refreshing to camp as most campsites are well laid up and good amenities.

Day 21 to Day 24

Transit Valparaiso and took the coastal road before meet up Route 5 PanAmericanas again at Temuco. In was very nice to be in Valparaiso again and stood taking picture at the same spot near the Chilean Admiratly HQ when I was here in 2006.
After Valpairso and ride South, the physical vegetation and air change; its green and many vineyards and other agricultural scenary.

On the Route 5, strong wind take the centre stage. This cross wind as though a drill before encounter the Pantagonian wind later. So is the riding style, change from just upright straight into incline riding position towards wind direction. Speed limit is 120 kph maximum and there are many police speed trap guns.The other feature along this route and at this time of the year is the afternoon downpour. Also the temperature drops as the day draws close. Night temperature about 15 degree C average.

The bike started to give this strange 'tractor sound' and I suspected the chain and sprockets are producing such awful noise. This has been going since Machala, Peru but I reckon its too much to push the chain to limit. So I decided to call it a day for maintenance at Temuco, Chile.